'No lip balm, no creams, no cigarette lighters or aerosols allowed. If you want it stuff it in your sock or down your pants.' - Our futbol guide.
It was a 200m walk to the stadium from the van we arrived in. The street was entirely gated off with 6ft steel fences. Swept up in the sea of people arriving, we were fed through 3 bag and pat down body searches about 70m apart to get into the stadium, all under the watchful eye of masses of police, and riot squad complete with water canons and armoured vehicles. The game hadn't even started.
The riot squad
We were 2 hours early for the match. Weird, we thought. We were escorted to the middle far corner of the 'La Boca' supporters side - each team's supporters are given a side of the field to prevent altercations. A fence at least 12ft high, complete with barbed wire, keeps supporters from the field (though not all - one man scaled the fence, flag in hand and became caught in the barbed wire), and from the opposing team's fans. Opposing team's fans are also not allowed to leave at the same time, the Argentinos fans being locked in until we had all dispersed at the end of the match.
The idiot who decided to climb the 12ft fence
Soon our side of the stadium was stuffed with La Boca fans with flags and banners galore (and a little baby with a very concerned look on his face, being held in one hand above his dad's head). Escorted to the bathroom, and escorted to get food (no alcohol allowed) you soon became concerned about how much they were worried about your safety. The war cries began, and we all stood up to watch the game, the Boca side resonating with singing and drums as we waited for the teams to take the field. (See the video - note the litte kid no older than 5 who joined in the shirt taking off and swinging it around your head routine and the weird hand flick that everyone does). We were sandwiched among st the masses, not having an inch on either side of us. For Claire, this was not a good thing. Both in front and behind, she had very sweaty men who had decided they would cool down by taking their shirts off.
Lucky we got there early, and luckily we were off to one side. The game drew even at 1-1. When La Boca scored again late in the second half (woo hoo, go La Boca - it would a certain death to go for the other side considering where we were sitting) , the crowd surged forward as they celebrated. In a tiered stadium (think concrete steps, no actual seats) this meant that everyone (including the man with the 4 month old baby) fell forward, down the steps, clutching at anything you could to regain your balance. Definitely a 'wholly crap' and 'this could end really badly' kind of moment. 
Slurry, surrounded by moobs.
The game finished 2-2, the Argentinos scoring in the last minute. Must say I was kind of relieved. Who knows how squashed we would have been had La Boca pulled it off and scored again. Spotted: classic hair cuts
The combination half head shave with blonded rats tail
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